So the good news is that it is still possible. Whats that then I hear you say? Well despite surfings growing poularity, despite the amount of predictive information available on the internet, and despite the recession it,s still possible to surf with your mates in uncrowded waves. Time was the only way of knowing if there were waves involved being in sight of the ocean. Living at the coast was the only way to be certain of scoring the best waves. Nowadays theres no particular advantage in coastal dwelling when the oceans every twitch is telegraphed in advance allowing even the most landlocked of surf addled junkies to be on it ,at the right place ,right time ,every time. Not to be too misty eyed or nostalgic about it and not wanting come across as some sort of Luddite but it does sometimes feel when trapped in the middle of the pack that there is a disconnect between what we are doing in the ocean and what the ocean is doing with us.
Anyway the point I was hoping to make before the mini rant is that it is still possible to surf with a few mates away from the pack. That,s one of the most exciting things about this time of year when days get longer and possibilities begin to expand.
As I came round the corner Shirley was just jumping into the rip with no one else about. By the time I,d changed and made my way to the jump off spot he,d allready had three good ones and was lining up another.We traded a few waves before Linnane(temporarily freed from parental duties ) paddled out and stroked into a gem. We knew it wouldn,t last long as the swell was picking and the tide filling fast so made the most and left the water laughing.It wasn,t death defying ,it wasn,t a business, it was a few mates reaping the benifits of living by the ocean.
thanks to jennifer for the photos which prove conclusively that Spanish Point has a split personality and sometimes thinks its Crab Island.